How to surf?
It is easy and at the same time complicated to answer this question. On the one hand the technique is really simple so everybody can perform it independently on his/her age and fitness level. On the other hand it takes many hours, days and even months to get understanding of the ocean and the feeling of the wave – which is the main part of success.
This is why, if you have only few weeks of your vacation in Bali we highly recommend you to take lessons in surf school. Experienced instructor will help you to reach significant progress in short time and will share with you by the main secrets of correct behavior of surfers in the water. But in case you still want to try it by your own, we would love to give you some tips that will help you with your first steps.
First of all, before paddling out, read security technique and main surfing rules in order not to harm yourself or somebody else in the water. There is concrete surf etiquette which tells about rules of priority on the lineup and communication in the water. You can learn more about etiquette at lessons in surf school or just google it. The most important rule for beginners is not to pedal out in a row! Keep the distance otherwise the one in front of you can lose a board and it will hit you. Beginner should choose a long surfboard, better softtop, which is covered with soft rubber. It is Beginner’s classic mistake to take shortboard. Shortbord is made for maneuvers, but what you need now is a stable board which allows you to catch waves easily and to stand up slowly. The bigger board is – the more mistakes it forgives you!
When you just start to surf there should be no rush. You can pop up slowly in three motions: raise your shoulders, set the back leg, and then set the front leg while stand up. First few surf sessions do not paddle far from the shore. Instead stop before beach break and try to catch white foam. It’s easier and doesn’t take so much time and energy to paddle out. When you will successfully stand up and ride every white foam wave you can paddle out to lineup – the point in ocean where the wave breaks. You can recognize it by the group of surfers out there. But be really careful choosing the break – better watch other beginners and go where they are going to.
Once again, the technique is simple, you can watch few tutorials on YouTube, try it on the shore and paddle out. To understand where you have to be and how to paddle to catch the wave – this is the part every beginner struggle with! Surfing is an extreme sport, so before claiming that you can do it by your own think twice about taking professional lessons. We wish you a great time in ocean!